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Dentro de pocos días, el 21 de este quinto mes del año se cumplirá el 77º aniversario del nacimiento de Manuel Piña, diseñador por excelencia en la segunda mitad del siglo XX. Podría decirse que en España, pero sería quedarse corto, Piña llegó mucho más allá, aunque su relación con el país fue lo que lo elevó como referente hasta nuestros días. Piña, a diferencia de muchos, optó por lo nacional como prioritario y puso las miras tras las fronteras en segundo lugar.
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La Mujer Piña
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Evidentemente su talento traspasó océanos y mares. Italia, Alemania, Japón o Estados Unidos son algunos de los países donde la “Mujer Piña” hizo gala de su presencia. Este término se adquirió a finales de la dictadura, aunque tomó todo su valor en la Transición. La Mujer Piña era esa nueva mujer española, estaba liberada y era imponente. ¿Sus armas predilectas? El glamour y la feminidad. En pocas palabras, la mujer Piña era fuerte y femenina.
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Vestido de novia diseñado por Manuel Piña
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Largo fue el proceso de creación de esta fuerza en la mujer. Venía inspirada en la señora manchega de la posguerra. Esa madre ruda y todoterreno que lucha por sacar adelante a su familia. Piña quiso enmarcar esa fuerza y resistencia a través de su estética. Primeramente se decantó por igualar a la mujer al hombre con formas más geométricas y rígidas. Pronto esta idea evolucionó en la fuerza de la mujer como lo que es, como mujer femenina que no necesita igualarse a nadie para tener poder.
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Piña y España
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Lo que Manuel Piña hizo por la moda en España no tiene nombre, el mundo podría haber estado a sus pies, seguro que si estuviese hoy lo estaría, pero más fuertes eran sus raíces en Manzanares.
Allí fue donde falleció, tras múltiples vicisitudes, decidió trasladarse a su Castilla natal para vivir sus últimos momentos. Pero Manzanares siempre estuvo presente, incluso presentó una colección allí en un tiempo en el que era impensable alejarse de las capitales de moda o capitales en su defecto.
Este valor que él daba a su localidad fue reconocido por el Ayuntamiento de la misma y desde 2007 existe el Museo Manuel Piña en Manzanares. En este, se pueden encontrar cientos de sus diseños cedidos por el entorno del diseñador, además de formatos audiovisuales de sus desfiles y su vida que completan la exposición.
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Parte de la exposición Manuel Piña en el Centro Cultural Ciega de Manzanares
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Sin embargo, no sólo del imaginario español gozan los diseños de Piña, también existe una inspiración bastante más clara. Colores como el blanco de las casas encaladas o el dorado del trigo. Formas de volantes o chaquetas de torero y su eminente punto como uno de los tejidos más reconocibles del diseñadores, así como el macramé o las blondas.
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Ejemplo de las referencias de España en una de las colecciones temporales del Museo del Traje sobre Manuel Piña
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Me alegro de que gracias a mi marca, pueda apoyar a que la historia de una leyenda siga vigente hoy día y más cuando es una nacional, porque no hay nada más gratificante que compartir lo cercano.
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